The apparel sector is aware of its waste issue. Approximately one garbage truck’s worth of textiles is discarded every second. In addition, this sector produces more carbon emissions than combined international flights and maritime shipping. 

Some businesses are trying out innovative methods to recycle textile waste, while others are creating new materials that do not rely on fossil fuels. One startup, Rubi, is “essentially extracting the machinery of biology from the cell” to create the foundational components of lyocell and viscose, co-founder and CEO Neeka Mashouf shared with TechCrunch. The technology developed by the startup will enable any firm using cellulose to manufacture products from captured carbon dioxide.

Rubi has recently secured $7.5 million to construct a demonstration-scale version of its cellulosic production system, aimed at generating tens of tons of material by using CO₂ as its primary ingredient. This funding round was spearheaded by AP Ventures and FH One Investments, with additional involvement from CMPC Ventures, H&M Group, Talis Capital, and Understorey Ventures, as exclusively reported to TechCrunch by Rubi.

The startup has secured over $60 million in non-binding off-take deals with several partners, Mashouf indicated to TechCrunch. The company has conducted material testing with 15 pilot partners, including H&M, Patagonia, and Walmart.

To create cellulose for lyocell or viscose, Rubi employs enzymes. This approach is distinct from other startups that may utilize engineered bacteria in a fermenter or chemical catalysts to convert carbon dioxide into the required compound. Currently, the majority of cellulose is sourced from trees, encompassing plantations and untapped rainforests.

“These textile and raw material supply chains are very lengthy,” Mashouf remarked. “In the U.S., we’ve seen interest in the ability to actually produce textile-grade cellulose pulp, which is not currently available.”

The inspiration to use enzymes arose when Mashouf, a scientist focused on researching new materials, collaborated with her twin sister, Leila, a medical student at Harvard Medical School. “We examined all the existing technology,” she noted, but always returned to enzymes.

The enzyme sector is substantial, she stated. It is utilized in the production of high-fructose corn syrup and in the treatment of wastewater. “The existing capacity is already available and can be quite cost-effective.”

Rubi employs a “cascade” of enzymes to process waste carbon dioxide. The company has integrated AI and machine learning techniques to enhance the enzymes’ efficiency and stability. 

At present, the enzymes are suspended in an aqueous solution; as carbon dioxide is introduced, white cellulose will form within minutes inside the reactor, Mashouf explained. The reactors are designed to fit within modules the size of shipping containers. Ultimately, Rubi intends to modify its process for continuous production.

While the startup aims to serve apparel companies as its initial clients, it aspires to provide cellulose to any sector that utilizes it in the future. “This truly is a foundational platform,” Mashouf asserted. “We view it as a means to produce all the crucial chemicals and materials across the economy at a reduced cost.”